Big Round Peg, Small Round Hole
I recently found a B16A block and pistons from a scrap yard in excellent condition. But the crankshaft journals are badly scored, so I got a B18A crank (also in good condition) to replace it. Will it work?Vince IenaroMontreal, Canada
Unfortunately, LS internals will not fit in a B16 short block in stock configuration. The LS assembly is physically longer and the B16 has a shorter (~203mm) deck height than that of the B18A/B (~212mm). It is because of this major difference that a straight rotating assembly swap will not work. The pistons would stick out of the hole 9mm (talk about high compression). The only way to pull off this swap would be to use custom pistons with a significantly lower compression height. The price of the pistons alone would warrant looking into alternative builds.
First, you might want to determine if your B16 crank is totally unusable. You could try having it micro-polished and magnafluxed. It may still have some life left in it. If not, your time is better spent tracking down another B16 crank. If you're looking for a little added displacement and want to stay OEM, keep your eyes peeled for a B17 ('92-93 GS-R) rotating assembly. That crank, rod, and piston combo fits perfectly into a B16 and will net you a 1678cc displacement.DB
Overkill
I've checked everywhere to learn the factory fuel pressure for my '91 Integra GS with no luck. I recently added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and I don't know what to set the pressure to. I have a Walbro fuel pump, NGK Platinum plugs and the usual bolt-ons.Matt HainesAthens, Ga.
First of all, your fuel pressure should be at 31-38psi with the vacuum hose attached, 40-47psi without it, according to the manual. Speaking of manuals, why don't you have one? A service manual, or at least a Haynes or Chilton's, should be on the garage shelf. Ever forget which distributor plug is which? Or the torque specs for a head bolt? Get the manual.
We question whether an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is necessary for your build. From what you've told us, you have some bolt-ons and unnecessary, for now, fuel system parts. The stock fuel system will work fine for you up to about 200 wheel hp. Until you're in that territory, buy parts that will get you there, like pistons, cams and an intake manifold. Fuel system parts are by no means a waste of money. You've just placed them too far up the priority list.DB
Hot Twins
I'm the proud owner of a 2002 Honda Accord V-6 coupe. When I return from my Army deployment, I'd like to turbocharge it. So far, I've found supercharger systems, but no turbo kits. Is it better to supercharge this engine? Is that why blowers are more common? SPC Allen StellyUS Army
The main reason you don't see many Accord V-6 turbo kits is because space is tight under the hood. The J-series engine's transversely mounted configuration leaves little room for turbos and manifolds.
Check out the Combos piece we did this issue for an idea of how to build a Mustang-beating Accord V-6 with a custom twin-turbo setup. With the hot side of your heads exiting out of a single port, all you need are two flanges and a couple inches of tube for a turbo manifold. Bolt on an intercooler, run charge piping, add injectors and an AEM EMS to control them and call it boosted. Sounds easy enough right? Let us know if you take a stab at it.DB
At a Crossroads
I have a '96 Civic coupe with a manual trans and a D16Y7 motor that I just recently blew up. Would it be easier and cheaper to buy another D16, rebuild the one I've got or just get a B series? Second question: Which D-series motors have VTEC?Shawn Smith Stuttgart, Ark.
Your best bet is to buy another D16 longblock for about $400 just to get your car running again (we assume it's not), and then build up the blown D for boost. You could go B series of course, but even for an LS motor, you're looking at three to four times the cost of the D16. Yes it'll make more power more easily, but it requires larger initial costs up front. Your call. Depends on how much cash you've got available. We'd take the D scenario ourselves: an engine to get you mobile and a project motor to work on, which will net you more power than the B would have yielded for the same investment.
Finally, the D motors with VTEC are (USDM) D16Z6, D16Y8. (JDM/EURO) D16A, ZC-VTEC, D15B-VTEC.DB
Remember: if you don't have anything nice to say, be sure you say it in a grammatically correct manner. Also, be sure to provide us with some information-your name, address (most importantly the city, state and country you reside in), and an e-mail address or phone number that we can reach you at.
Got Questions, Comments, Love or Hate? Send your letters to: editorial@hondatuningmagazine.com. Snail mail: 2400 E. Katella Ave, Ste. 1100, Anaheim, CA 92806