Auto Repair And Maintenance

Whoa, I think you're getting ahead of yourself. That setup would put you in the mid-14:1 compression ratio range. Add twenty points to your pump gas' octane rating and you could probably pull that setup off. Even with JDM Type R pistons, you'll be looking at a high 12:1 ratio. The dynamic compression from your humongous cams should probably make the P73's work on pump gas, but it'll be right on the brink of needing to step up to race gas. To answer your second question, use 9's; they'll work great. - DB

John Rodriguez' First Fan
Please help! I'm in the Army and during my deployment Honda Tuning and Sports Compact Car are all I read. I have a '03 Civic EX. The car comes with the D17, the bastard child of Honda engines. There are so few parts out there for the car and motor. I know a lot of people are doing the K-motor swaps, but I want to do something different. I thought I was saved in the April or May '06 issue, when you were about to do a series to show the power the D17 could put out. You did the fuel pump but you never continued the build. Maybe you can help me.

I bought a built turbo block that can withstand 24psi and lowers the compression from 10:1 to 8:1, and I want to get a stronger head. The thing is, there are not many quality turbo kits for the D17 and I don't know what is the best ECU or piggyback system to go with. Once again, there are not many options out there for this application. Please help!
Brian Henriksen
Ft. Capmbell, KY

Our buddy John Rodriguez has been building his setup for some time now. It is actually sitting at the dyno shop waiting to be tuned as I write this. There will be a final installment of the story whenever he can get the thing finished.

If you've got a block that can handle that much boost, you probably shouldn't be too worried about the head. Boost isn't going to break anything in the top end; 90 percent of the turbo motors I see are built bottom end-with-stock top end combinations. The thing you should be most concerned with is the fuel and fuel management. If you run a return system, like John did, you'll be one step closer to an easily tunable ride.

Being able to control fuel pressure with an adjustable FPR is key; even guys with K-swaps usually do this. John is using a GReddy e-Manage for his kit. While the e-Manage is a decent piggyback controller, you'll probably want to go with a standalone unit if you can swing the cost. Look to the AEM EMS for your best bet. There's also a possibility you might get a Hondata K-Pro to work.

When you choose to do a project like yours, one that hasn't already been done thousands of times, you are also choosing into doing the legwork and figuring things out on your own. A whole lot of what you're doing will have to be custom. Good luck; be ready for tons of hard work and sleepless nights trying to get a project like this together. I'll tell you this much: the knowledge learned and satisfaction of completing the job is definitely worth every bit of stress that it'll take to make it happen.